The Reverse Sazerac from Pizzeria Ortica

Burnt candied orange burst from nose to palate with strong supporting roles of anise and high acid bitter grapefruit keeping it in check.

DISCLAIMER:

This drink is a bit complicated, and somewhat of commitment. That being said, it manages to find an incredible balance, and batches out wonderfully for frequent use.

1/2 oz Lemon Juice
3/4 oz Simple Syrup
1/4 oz Kubler Absinthe
1/2 oz Contratto Bitter
3/4 oz Iris Liqueur
1./2 oz Stagg JR (flamed)
Orange Zest

Stagg

1/2 oz Flamed Stagg Whiskey

To start, take a room temperature cocktail glass or coupe and put in 1/2 oz high proof whiskey. Peel a nice wide swath of orange as well and set it aside with the glass.

kubler-absinthe

1/4 oz Kubler Absinthe

The trick is to keep the glass and the whiskey room temp or warmer to get an increasingly bigger flame, purely effect. Preheating the glass or the spirit should be reserved for lower proofs since you run the risk of shattering your glass. Certainly always hard to play that off in front of guests.

Contratto

1/2 oz Contratto Bitter

Combine all ingredients in a shaker minus the whiskey, orange and fire, that comes in a second. Before you put your ice in the tin, make sure you have everything you need in reach; double strainer, Hawthorne, lighter, fire extinguisher, all that. This is for time, the glass WILL break if you let it burn too long.

IRIS_icon

3/4 oz Iris Liqueur

Add the ice and light the whiskey, place the orange peel on the rim of the glass to get it nice and toasty. Shake it up, set your Hawthorne on the tin next to your double strainer ready to go, grab the orange peel and express the oil right over the flame, dropping it in the glass as it flairs up. Immediately grab the tin and double strain over the flame to douse it out.

One key thing to look out for with this kinds of cocktail is the temperature of the rim. If your cocktail doesn’t measure all the way up to the rim, its gonna be pretty hot and someone is going to burn their lips. 

Huge shout out to my awesome team at Pizzeria Ortica, Aristotle Altstaetter and Jason Scarborough. They nailed it with this cocktail.

Thanks to OC Weekly and Gustavo Arellano for featuring this in their
Drink of the Week segment!

OC Weeky

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The subtle reemergence of vodka in a sea of whiskey

Vodka Sea

Amidst an unprecedented craze of whiskey and bourbon, vodka has finally taken a back seat for the first time in decades. Originally met with tears of joy from serious bartenders and imbibers alike, we are beginning to see tears of agony welling up their place.

For those of us that have never fully appreciated vodka to begin with, now might be the appropriate time.

Weather you realize it or not, America is at the precipice of its “cocktail revolution”. All of the sudden we find it hard to get our hands on certain whiskey that isn’t really that special.

We see restaurant bar buyers being handcuffed to purchasing a maximum of 2 bottles of mediocre bourbon a week by certain big name vendors, for whiskey that has been readily available on the shelf of your local liqour store since before most of us bartenders first picked up a stick.

The new demand has for the most part, changed everything we have come to expect from our beloved brown liqour. Price, aging, allocations. It’s a whole new ball game.

So what happens when the demand becomes too great? What then. The line for Pappy will undoubtedly wellerpappywrap around whatever building its in 3 or 4 times more than it currently is upon realese date, Weller 12 year becomes an extremely allocated, hard to find product – don’t quote me on that, but my initial impressions lead me there.

Seriously, if the demand became too great, and we all of the sudden end up in some sort of apocalyptic whiskey hell what then? Well, why not give the consumer something it’s craved for generations past…in new reanimated form?

barrel-aged-kit-200x200Why not make it a zombie apocalypse… Why not, barrel age Vodka – Whiskey hell indeed.

Part jokingly and part, well, not jokingly, Pizzeria Ortica has decided that we would rather not be caught behind an insane wave of popularity, but rather explore what the consumers are actually asking for.rye_spotlight_image_10.24.14

If you ask your typical bar guest (mind your location) what they like about rye vs. bourbon, you will more often than not, get a long blank stare or, some rambling attempt to salvage their ego. Mind you, the guest is always right, but I can only hope these kind folk would eventually trust the people that have dedicate their life to this sort of thing.

Generally speaking, consumers don’t know what they want until you tell them. Either that or they get an idea from an outside source via advertising or word of mouth. Actually knowing what you want at a restaurant or bar requires a level of self awareness and education that is usually reserved those that have a relevant passion for food and or drinks. You really have to love cocktails, wine, beer or food to form an educated decision on what it is you actually want to eat or drink when you walk into an unfamiliar restaurant.

It’s not a bad thing to order a Cosmo, lemon drop or a Long Island iced tea if that’s all you know, or just don’t care enough, or simply don’t trust whatever bartender to get your manhattan right. It speaks volumes of your liquid culture and experience to navigate those waters sans pretension or ignorance.

I still order long islands when I go to claim jumper because I know they come out perfect there every time. I know if I ordered a manhattan at Broadway in Laguna Beach it would come out perfect every time.

All that being said. If the general consumer wants fashionable brown liquor, why not give them something entirely different but by no means new, and see how they feel about that? Couldn’t hurt to try.

Enter barrel aged vodka. Granted I’m not one to take a step backward unless completely necessary, but if I’ve learned anything in my studies of wine, its that Americans love the taste of oak. Sure explains the whiskey movement. Being that whiskey is the perfect vessel for delivering the vanillin laden flavor of oak I can see why it has taken off the way it has.

We have been experimenting with barrel aged cocktails for some time at now at Pizzeria Ortica. Not to say we have grown bored with it, but it does lack a certain amount of originality at this point In the game.

With consumer awareness skyrocketing, barrel aged Negroni are unfortunately, just another drop in the bucket in a sea of restaurants eager to cash in on Americas newest craze, albeit a rather delicious one.

With that in mind, we obviously want to give the consumer what they want, but as a man raised in the cultural of hospitality, I understand that also entails providing my guests with that which they didn’t realize they want and/or need – without them having to ask for it.

About a month ago now, after putting our heads together, my mentor, Jason Scarborough, a sommelier from New York, and one of the most level headed beverage and hospitality professionals I have ever had the privilege of working for, came up with an idea that began as a tongue in cheek exercise we both though would be entertaining at the least, revolutionary at best…(hard to keep a straight face).

Now we are happy to finally unveil Pizzeria Ortica’s barrel aged vodka project.

It’s been about 35 days since we filled one of our 10 liter barrels full of vodka, and the result is nothing short of mind blowing.

Within a day we saw a drastic change in color and aroma. The flavor didn’t kick in in until about a week, and even then maintained an awkward bitterness on the palate until about 4 weeks in, where it suddenly rounded a corner in its aging process.

What we discovered is, Vodka, an odorless tasteless spirit happens to be the perfect vessel for soaking up the subtle nuances of anything it comes in contact with, similar to the way chardonnay soaks up oak, It’s like the tofu of the spirit world.

What we ended up with, is a wildly complex version of an otherwise completely boring spirit. Subtle hints of oak, and pretty much every other cocktail we’ve aged in that particular barrel comes out in spades.

Now the real question is, how do we proceed.

New oak will obviously provide a much more linear experience than what we have at Ortica. Our semi neutral barrel has been seasoned with at least 5Vodka in water different spirits so it’s obviously going to provide a much different experience than a virgin barrel ( stay tuned for that ).

But don’t be surprised if you come to find yourself gravitating towards vodka versions of you favorite classic cocktails. Manhattans, sazeracs, old fashioned’s, mint Juleps, even a horses neck is all fair game.

So let the tears flow and the stones fly. But rest your weary head, and jaded mind when you finally rediscover the possibilities of a simple and often misunderstood category of spirit, in a fresh new light.

Cin Cin!

 

Braulio Alpino Amaro!

Braulio LogoIt may be the definition of terroir, Amaro Braulio is a playfully bitter, pine-driven spirit that speaks of the land from which it came.

bormio2

The Birthplace of Braulio

The one thing you will hear me say over and over when I speak of amaro, is terroir. Im obsessed, hence my fascination with Amaro Braulio. It screams of its native terroir, Northern Italy, bordering the swiss alps in a town called Bormio, It lies in the Provence of Sondrio in Valatellina, Lombardia. If you’re familiar with Alto Adige its about 2 hours east of Bolzano. This area was once a highly sought after trade route between Italy and Norther Europe.

13_BRAULIO_radiciSimply put, Braulio drinks like carmalized Arolla and Scots Pine, the native trees in that area of the Alps. I’ve heard people say it tastes like a Christmas tree in a glass, for me it is the definition of terroir. A shining example of what Amaro is all about, firmly rooted in its land and surroundings.

Braulio75cl_USA Front

Imported to the States by our friends at Domaine Select

 

It is unique from most amari for the fact that it the herbs used are macerated in a grape distillate, or grappa as it is known in Italy. This is not the only amaro to use grappa as its base but it lends a naturally deep complexity to the finished product over those that use grain alcohol. After maceration it is typically aged for two years in oak barrels further enhancing its unique properties and depth.

 

Only four, among the thirteen ingredients used in its preparation are known: gentian, juniper, wormwood, and yarrow. The rest are kept secret.

Braulio Poster

At 21% abv this amaro is rich, with notes of chamomile, sandalwood and pine, predominantly bittersweet front front to back. It was first produced in 1875 and named after Monte Braulio, one of the 23 main peaks of the Livigno Alps.

Braulio giant

Drinking it straight from the bottle crosses my mind almost every time I pick it up. Its great on its own neat, but with a splash of soda water and orange it is equally enjoyable. During the summer try pouring it over crushed ice, zesting an orange peel over the top for a bittersweet and refreshing treat.

If you are  wondering how to employ this fine beverage in your cocktails remember what mom always told you; less is more.


Bars and restaurants around the U.S. are already begining to find ways to properly showcase this powerful amaro.

 Nico Osteria in Chicago has crafted a refeshing twist on the negroni called Nico and Featherweight in Brooklyn has conjured up an alpine twist on an old fashioned called The Saw Tooth.

NICO:
1 1/4 oz Sipsmith Gin
1 1/4 oz Cocchi Americano
3/4 oz mineral water
1/2 oz Amaro Braulio

Nico

2 oz Elijah Craig 12-year
1/2 oz  Amaro Braulio
1 brown sugar cube
2 dashes Fee’s orange bitters

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEqcBxAomRg

California in a Bottle

California is known for many things, but amaro?

Grand Poppy

While not technically classified as an amaro, Grand Poppy is a genius blend of organic California herbs that gives you everything you would expect from an amaro as far as terrior goes.

This absurdly distinct, bitter-sweet spirit bears the essence of sweet, buried flowers and the unearthed roots of a poppy due to its gentian dominated finish.

Poppy sunset

California Red Poppy

Grand Poppy hails from The Greenbar Collective – a “first of it’s kind since prohibition” Los Angeles distillery headed up by the husband and wife spirit making duo Melkon Khosrovian and Litty Mathew.

This liqueur showcases a cornucopia of California’s bounty including: poppy, orange, lemon, grapefruit, bearberry, California bay leaf, pink peppercorn, dandelion, blessed thistle, burdock, rue, artichoke, geranium and cherry bark – macerated in a rum base, then re-distilled and finished with cane sugar.

156151_671641666198545_1377510484_nGreenbar Craft Distillery is the same family responsible for the line of TRU vodka and gin, as well as IXÁ tequila, Slow Hand White Whiskey, Crusoe Silver Rum, FruitLab Liqueurs and the infamous BAR KEEP Bitters line, making them the largest distributor of organic spirits on the market, and the first carbon negative distillery in the world!

Well Done Greenbar. Well Done.

Come try “The State Flower” cocktail at Pizzeria Ortica:
1oz Grand Poppy
1oz Campari
1oz Nolets Gin

The Amaro Induction

wine bath ass 335

We’ve come a long way since the days of Jager-bombs, Peppermint Schnapps and Goldschläger. Remember when 99 Bananas actually seemed like a good idea?

Ok, well maybe that was never really the case but none the less, we are in the midst of an educated alcohol revolution.

From craft cocktails to craft beer, wine and spirits to bittersweet liqueurs, we are seeing vast improvements on quality and consumer awareness.

 Maybe not to anyone’s surprise it seems like the United States has been a little behind the palate for most of the gorgeous liquid offerings of the world.

Most still think Fireball is “hot-shit” for lack of a more appropriate term, but some have already begun to explore the vast offerings of quality indigenous beverages throughout the world.

So maybe you haven’t been introduced to the beautiful world of Amari yet , or  maybe you’ve read a blurb about them on Tasting Table online. Perhaps you’ve dabbled with one or two at Pizzeria Ortica in Costa Mesa, maybe you and your hipster friends still think its cool to bust out your Fernet coins at a bar (kinda cool actually), or maybe you’ve been drinking them with your Italian Grandmother since you started walking. 

Wherever you’re at I hope to serve as a catalyst for education and discovery in all things liquid, with of course as much focus on Amaro, and anything remotely resembling this “Italian liquid Gold”.

I am here for the beverage nerd in all of us.  

Cin Cin!

Joel Anthony Caruso 

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